Cosmeceuticals

Note that only the first 4-5 ingredients are the active ingredients. The rest are too negligible in amount to do anything.

Vitamin A

l   Used for:

n   Acne: regulate sebum

n   Brightening effect: has an effect on tyrosinase inhibitor (do not use the term whitening as that is an illegal term to use)

n   Antiaging: increase epithelial turnover, collagen & elastin synthesis

l   How to use: pm only because of photosensitivity, and use alone, don’t put on moisturizer, initially every third night, then increase in frequency up to every night. Can also alternate with other cosmeceuticals.

l   Initial use: redness, flakiness, sensitivity.

l   5 different types:

n   Retinyl and retinyl palmitate: need to convert to retinoic acid once it’s in the skin

n   Retinaldehyde: softer/gentler, for sensitive/reactive skin

l   Contraindicated in pregnant/lactating people

AHA

l   Desquamate: break the bonds of dead skin cells à increase mitosis in basal layerà increased epithelialization/cell turnoverà decongest poresà increase absorption of the actives into the skin

l   How to use: pm only as photosensitivity, 2-3x/week

l   Contraindicated in pregnant/lactating people

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

l   Used for:

n   Collagen stimulation

n   Brightening: TI inhibitors

n   Promotes healing

n   Antioxidant: spare electrons that can be donated to free radicals

n   Anti-inflammatory

l   How to use: Can be used am &pm. Don’t put Vit A + C at the same time as theirs is bad interaction. Don’t put AHA + Vit C at the same time as it only produces a duplicating effect.

l   12 types:

n   MAP: most stable and preferred

n   Ascorbyl 6 palmitate

n   VCP-IS-Na

n   Ascorbic acid sulfate

n   Tetraisopalmitoyl ascorbic acid

l   Very unstable molecule, need to be packaged carefully

l   Vit C + zinc on skinà increase sun protection 6x

Vitamin B

l   Used for:

n   Strengthening and healing of skin

n   Increase hydration

n   Decrease transepidermal water loss

n   Decrease pigmentation by preventing transfer of melanin to keratinocyte

n   Suppresses excess oil production

n   Enhances blood flow

l   Types:

n   Niacinamide B3: Synergie has the highest % Niacinamide on market

n   Panthenol B5

Chirally correct treatments, eg. L-vitamin C. 20%

Chemical sunscreen needs to be on skin 20minutes before sun exposure, whereas zinc works straight away.

Aspect (blue label) can be stocked in beauty clinics without prescribing doctor.

Aspect Dr (red label) has to be stocked in beauty clinics with prescribing doctors.